Oh, man. Here’s a pic to warm the cockles of any WESTPAC sailor’s heart.
Fenwick Pier, adventure’s in the air and the first round’s on me. Mikimoto pearls and the White Star Ferry. Victoria Peak and Admiralty. Tailor-made suits. Tsim Sha Shui. Hong Kong side or Kowloon side? High tea at the Peninsula. The American Club. Mad Dog’s pub (“Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the summer sun”) for fish and chips and maybe a Guinness (for strength!) and Dusk To Dawn to see if it lives up to its moniker (and yes, it does). “Shentral” and oh my God, Wan Chai and if your head don’t hurt tomorrow then you’ll have to try again. Safety day on day three: Let’s play golf at Discovery Bay. Last night ashore, and how could I forget Joe Bananas? (Hint: Maybe because it was always off-limits.) Important safety tips: (1) Ask what it costs before you buy. (2) Pay in cash.
Ah, memories.
After that litany, kind of surprised enough brain cells are still firing to assemble the recollection.
Off-limits? Oh, because of the stage show?
Let’s go. What are they going to do? Shave our heads and send us overseas?
It was the only port I ever stood watch in to repell borders. I did buy a tailor made suit for $26, was able to spend greenbacks and saw round eyes for the first time in 6 months. 1960 CVA-19.
Ah, no ASM – It was off limits because the Brit expats didn’t much care to share their favorite watering hole (nor any of its usuals) with all them sailors.
At least it was that way up until 1997, but then after the Reds came in and most of the expats went home (or to Singapore), it was arms wide open and “Welcome back Yank!”
And KS, I was in my youth tormented by an over-abundance of hyperactive brain cells. I have been self-medicating ever since.
Let me add Jimmy’s Kitchen, the Repulse Bay Hotel, the Dragon Boat Bar at the Hilton (beer in frosty mugs – after 4 months at sea a dream come true), China Fleet Club, the tram to the top of Victoria Peak, etc, etc.
And woe be unto the First Lieutenant that failed to get Mary Soo to touch up that haze gray stuff…
Even better if no carrier was in port…
Sad commentary on todays sailors: My son-in-law was there recently on the Big E. Couldn’t understand what all the hype was about, thought Pusan was better (because of the shopping). Of course, he doesn’t drink, smoke, or chase women….I guess it could be worse
and don’t forget Ned Kelly’s Last Stand for a bit of fellowship with some mates from down under.
My Daddy used to tell me a sea story from Hong Kong…He was on an oiler, the Ashtabula, in the early 60′s and made a stop in HK. He was a lowly snipe, had to work late and missed the last launch to shore. He and a couple of buddies decided to swim. “The shoreline lights were so bright, and they didn’t look THAT far away!” They put dry clothes in big plastic bags and jumped in. Apparently, his buddies were better swimmers than he, and left him on his own. He was grateful for that bag, because he says he ended up using it as a floatation device. Many hours later, nearly sunrise, he made it to shore. He says he was so absolutely tired that he found his way to the launch and went straight back to the ship. Do you believe? I sure do.
My father served in the Air Force in SE Asia. He was able to go to Hong Kong on leave, and he absolutely loved it. He bought my mother a strand of Mikimoto pearls and my oldest sister, who was a baby at the time, a lovely jade pendant. I (alas) was several siblings away from being born and have nothing to show for his travels while in the service. I do love hearing his stories, though.
Gee. Hong Kong. (I’m misting up) The first time I was there Suzy Wong bars were everywhere. I wonder if the Star Ferry is still 20 cents. Whatta place!
Last time I went on the Star Ferry it was $1 for the upper deck. The lower deck was 60 cents and you could spit there as well.
No argument really.
That was 10 years ago tho, just before the handover.
Lex,
That might have been good judgement on the part of the Brits.
The Marine Corps, in it’s wisdom, never took any unit I was with to Hong Kong.
Eagle1 has the line up I remember fairly well. I also remember that lady barrister who lived up high who took me to a Brit Power Pool Party. I made the last boat backsheep.
Right now sitting in my cube staring at the Rolex Sub I bought there for $325 US. Squadron mates called it a “Polex” (made in eastern Europe) all cruise until I got it verified after return CONUS.
That and my first look at authentic Peking Duck (head on). “You mean to tell us we eat the skin only?”
Old man memories.
b2
“I have been self-medicating ever since.”
Lex, would that be Woodford’s Reserve? Or some other poison? No matter, tell us what it is. Cuz not only can you remember those places after the, ahem, referenced experiences, you also write a pretty mean blog…
Byron Audler said: Of course, he doesn?
Byron Audler said: Of course, he doesn’t drink, smoke, or chase women….
Admirable qualities in a son-in-law, doncha think, Byron? Well, ‘cept for the non-drinking bit…
Been to Hong Kong twice, the first time I was deathly ill upon arrival (long story) and the second time I had the wife in tow. I know I missed the best bits…
Hong Kong, baby! And a great pic of my first ride…The Kitty.
Shore Patrol, Bull & Bear (beat a couple of Brits at darts), China Fleet Club, Wan Chi, Star Ferry, Waltz’n Matilda’s, and some great pics from the top of Victoria Peak. Good times.
Buck, he’s a fine man, and a damn fine sailor, and good Lord willing and the creek don’t rise, he’ll be an ADC this time next year. I plan to be there, and will gladly buy his “flat hat”…then tell him what to do in it
Great memories Lex…..floated there with 31st MEU in 2000 after a miserable month in Korea. Banana Joe’s, Ned Kelly’s, Dusk til Dawn, and a number of them through Lan Kwai Fong that I can barely remember. By far, the only place I’ve been that beats Palma. 5 days and $2800 later, we were ready to get underway. It still makes me smile thinking about that week.
Lex,
I just saw the post about a carrier pulling into Hong Kong.
My father’s best liberty call stories usually began with “So the boat had pulled in to Hong Kong…” of course he did it back at the hey day of the late 60′s and early 70′s when Hong Kong and Cubi were your home away from homes for a WestPac sailor. The best two that he shared was these. After a great time ashore they were ridng one of the USS America’s Liberty launches back to the ship. There was a storm coming through and kicking up waves, one of the fighter guys from VF-96 who just blew about three to five hundred dollars on a set of matched golf clubs in town and lusting on using them the next day against a set of RAF pilots at the brit garrison. Cause of the high wind and waves the boat had to use a Jacob’s ladder on the side of the ship near the pier side quarterdeck. This fighter pilot threw the clubs on his shoulder and tried to negoitate the ladder. the liberty boat pitched up and under orders of the coxswain, the pilot grabbed the ladder. Seconds afterwards the boat pitched away and the pilot was there struggling to put his other hand on the ladder. My dad told me it is kind of funny to watch how big a splash an expensive toy makes as it drops into the harbor. Rather how small a splash. My father still isn’t sure how well the golf game went with the stock clubs at the course.
Ahh, Ned Kelly’s Last Stand, Dixieland jazz and cold beer.
Memories
Terror inducing bus ride to Stanley Market… Popeyes for tatoos… Pierside vs. Anchored out… Miles of Malls… McDonalds in Kowloon at Star Ferry… got me that tailor made suit too!